No adventure to Northern California is complete without a tour of the Giant Redwood Trees. One can only look up for so long without getting a terribly sore neck. These towering trees have a way of connecting to your spirit and soul. They make you recognize how vast is the universe as well as how insignificant is our time on this planet. We enjoyed two and a half full days of exploring these forests and shorelines that they border. These trees grow to over 300 feet in height and some of the larger circumferences being over 50 feet. They can also live over 2000 years. We found that there are two very distinct feels to the area. The first being the commercial/tourist-trap aspect with a focus on finding Sasquatch, taking pictures with over sized statues, creating "natural" wonders in the trees (like the drive-thru trees and Mystery Forest), and gift shops galore. We got sucked in by on the outer perimeters of the commercialism as we wanted the experience of driving through a tree. The second, and in our opinion the most rewarding, is the natural wonder of this incredible and ancient ecosystem. While standing within the forest, we could actually feel its power and majesty.
When you think about this area, you generally think about the interior of the forest but we also took the opportunity to explore the gorgeous beaches and seaside towns. Not least of which is the fishing village of Trinidad and the state beach therein. We all felt a special connection to this quaint little town. A must-see for anyone visiting this part of California. We were also very blessed to connect with some friends from Utah who offered us a hot meal, a shower, excellent company, great conversations, and a morning spent beach combing in Crescent City. We are very grateful to the Halvorsen family for their hospitality.
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Carolyn heard about this beach many years ago while searching online for craft ideas. As an avid beach comber, this area sounded heavenly and was put on her bucket list. She has been trying to visit for years and today, we finally had the opportunity. After some digging, we learned that it has recently been designated as a State Park which we were grateful to see as it means that people cannot just remove what remains of the treasures on the beach. Although not well marked, we still decided to respect the "no collecting" guidelines. With every handful, dozens of tumbled glass pieces can be discovered amidst the small rocks and abalone shells. We discovered that this was once a dumping ground for the town of Fort Bragg from the turn of the 20th century to the mid-1960s. There are still remnants of cars and appliances that had been tossed over the cliff. We advise to wear shoes while walking along the shore as there are some glass pieces that are still sharp. Also, rather than taking glass from the beach, consider leaving a mosaic for others to enjoy. Keep your eyes toward the water as we spotted two whales off shore and multiple harbor seals among the rocks.
After a relaxing and highly satisfying visit with our brother, Peter in Castro Valley, California, we started our trek north. Our route led us through wine country and of course, we had to stop at our favorite winery. Peter had recommended this winery to Will in 2008 and we have visited this hidden gem several times since. A winery which only sells direct to consumers, not available in stores. Not only is the wine incredible, but so is the market. Stocked with beautiful cheeses from around the world, cured meats, baguettes almost as good as those in France, and a relaxing atmosphere to enjoy a couple hours' respite from life on the road. Visit their website for available products.
As we had only briefly visited the north end of the lake in January we thought it appropriate to revisit during the warmer months. The crystal clear water, gorgeous sandy beaches and towering mountain panaramas did not disappoint. We were able to find a campsite outside a place called Inspiration point that had towering vistas looking over the lake about 750 feet above the shore. We spent two days exploring the beaches and forest that surrounded the area.
Amidst the desert sage and rabbit brush in the high mountains lies the "Ghost Town of the Wild West". Frozen in time, Bodie State Historic Park preserves the lives of those who rushed to the west looking for gold. During it's heyday from 1877 to 1888, Bodie was home to more than 10,000 residents. Five percent of the buildings (about 110 building) remain in a state of arrested decay. The one-mile long main street housed 65 saloons at its peak, a red-light district, and even a small Chinatown.
We were impressed by the authenticity of this ghost town. We have been to so many in our travels, most either a few structural ruins or made into a tourist trap. This was an incredible example of how hard the mining life must have been, and how fleeting the time. By 1910 the population dwindled to less then 700 people and by the 1940's only a care taker for the are remained. It became a national historic site and state park in 1962. We saw so many examples of life that seemingly came to a standstill. A pool table just after a game played, a schoolhouse with lessons still on the chalkboard, a pressure cooker in the hotel kitchen, numerous toys that have been worn down from many children's hands. We did not take the opportunity to tour the stamp mill, however, we wish we had. From highway 395, you have to drive 10 miles east on a paved road then 3 miles on a dirt road. Admission is charged per vehicle occupant and they sell a self-guided tour booklet for $2. This was definitely worth the diversion from our course and we would recommend it to anyone interested in life during the mining gold rush. Mono Lake - South Tufa area, California - an alkaline lake outside Mammoth Lakes. This gorgeous salt water lake is a spectacular stopping point to stretch your legs and discover the diverse ecosystems that intermix in one area. Only 40 minutes outside the incredible mountain/lake district of the high sierras, this oasis may seem out of place. Each of these spectacular "tufa towers", calcium-carbonate spires and knobs formed by interaction of freshwater springs and alkaline lake water, were created over 760,000 years ago in this terminal lake. The high salinity creates a perfect environment for brine shrimp and flies, which in turn allows this salt water lake to be a perfect refuge for millions of migrating shore birds.
Devils Postpile NM is an incredible example of columnar jointing. This geologic formation was created when one hundred thousand years ago, lava flowed through the valley and settled like a pool. As the lava cooled, it shrank and the basalt cracked in 120 degree angles. Several thousand years later, a glacier flowed along the top uncovering the formation and smoothing the tops of the columns. A majority of which are six sided. Dylan became a jr ranger at the monument
Mammoth Lake, California! We had the chance to spend a few days in Mammoth Lakes with family. Aunt Stacey and Aunt Jessie are both avid horseman, and we now know that Dylan takes after them in that area. Stacey had arranged to borrow a friends absolutely gorgeous little POA (Pony of the Americas) and Dylan got the chance to ride him 3 days in a row. She lead him, brushed him, helped tack him and went for an hour ride each time.
One of the days while in Mammoth, we took a trip down into Reds Meadow to visit, explore Sotcher Lake, and venture to Devils Postpile National Monument. Another day, after an hour horse ride, we (Stacey, Dylan, Will and I) rented E-bikes and rode bikes 18 miles up to the lake basin and all around town. It was a lovely way to spend the afternoon and I am now sold on wanting an e-bike desperately. Bears also made a large presence during our time in Mammoth Lakes - first we saw a large sow nursing her baby just up the street from Stacey's house - second we came across a baby down near Reds Meadow - third one tried to get into our car though the night, right outside the house and with no food in the car. "I own an observatory in the middle of the Mojave desert" said no one you have probably ever met. Yet, when we told my father that we were heading to Joshua Tree National Park, he told us about the observatory just north of there that his father bought him when he was studying astrophysics in university. After our looks of incredulity subsided, we searched for an hour until we could find it on the map and we made a point to visit. After our adventure in Joshua Tree, we turned north on the road to Rimrock, California. After the cute little "town" of Rimrock, the dirt road became questionable. Loose gravel and ruts that had the appearance of the Grand Canyon's beginnings made Carolyn grip her "oh shit" handle and armrest until her knuckles were paler than a ghost's toilet paper. To give you an idea of the kind of road we were on, it took us 45 minutes to drive 8 miles. Braving the 4x4 road in our minivan, we crested the top of a hill and saw our destination... still two miles away. Despite our trepidation, we pushed ahead and made it to the foot of the observatory's driveway. We parked a quarter of a mile away as the road was impassible from there in our vehicle. Hiking up the driveway among the Joshua Trees and Cholla cactus brought us to the cylindrical structure with a plaque on the side reading "Farrington Observatory built by William B Farrington" with no date or any other information. According to the Morongo Basin Historical Society, the observatory was built in the 1970s. They claim that the telescope was also built by Dr. Farrington with "lenses he had ground during off-duty hours while serving as a radio officer on a destroyer in the Atlantic during WWII." According to the Society, it is not known who owns it, but my family has held the papers since 1984. At one point this was a geocaching site, however, the cache has been removed. I can only imagine hosting a star-party out here, however next time, I would probably drive up in a Jeep. For now, we will leave the current "occupants" (mice, owls, and probably the occasional party-goer) undisturbed and keep the memories of this observatory with us for a lifetime. July 9th - Joshua Tree National Park. We entered Joshua Tree at the southern Cottonwood entrance and drove all the way through the park, stopping at many of the incredible vistas. To say that you are in the middle of the desert-no-where is an understatement - it is extremely hot, extremely dry, extremely barren...yet incredibly gorgeous. It is almost mind blowing that anything survives out in this harsh harsh environment. As you drive through the first 45 minutes through the southern end of the park you question how this ended up as a national park - then you reach the spectacular Joshua Tree forests and incredible boulders - and you no longer question why.
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April 2019
AuthorCarolyn and Will Bollwerk share their adventures with their 5 year-old daughter, Dylan. |